Venice and the Veneto

March 16 to 25, 2022

As the Roman Empire crumbled and lawless barbarians swept into Italy, a group of refugees sought safety on the swampy islands of a brackish lagoon.  The republic they formed in 697 A.D. lasted for more than a thousand years.  Physically, financially, and politically separate from mainland Italy, Venice was truly a nation unto itself.  The art, architecture, food, even the accents one still hears in the calle are unique to this clutch of islands.

            Yet despite their psychic distance from Italy, Venetians have always needed estates on the mainland.  Here is where the architect Palladio comes in. Born in 1508, Andrea Palladio, whose villas dot the Veneto, has had as profound an influence on architecture as anyone in the history of Western civilization.  

            Taking a cue from our recent trips to Perugia, in Venice we plan once again to offer several "Cocktail Incontri."  There are informal conversations in our hotel bar with people from the community who have interesting perspectives to share with us.  

The Itinerary, in brief:

Wednesday, March 16:   The tour begins when we meet in the afternoon at our villa hotel in Mira, a short distance from the Venice airport.  In the afternoon we have a private visit to the Villa Malcontenta, an iconic work by Andrea Palladio.  Group dinner to follow.

Thursday, March 17:  Excursion from Mira to Padua.  We begin our tour with one of the landmarks of Italian art:  the Scrovegni Chapel with frescoes by Giotto.  Afterwards, we can enjoy a leisurely exploration of this medieval city before returning to Mira for the night.  Group lunch.  

Friday, March 18:   A day of gardens and villas:  Two sets of them: the Villa Emo in Monselice and the Villa Barbarigo in Vansanzibio, with a country lunch to follow.  In the afternoon, we return to Mira via the Villa Pisano in Stra, with Tiepolo frescoes on the ceiling of the ballroom.  Group lunch.  

Saturday, March 19:   Morning visit to Palladio's iconic Villa Rotonda in Vicenzo along with the Villa ai Nani across the way, with frescoes by Tiepolo, father and son.  Lunch in Vicenza and afternoon tour of Palladio's works in town including the Palazzo Pubblico and the Teatro Olympic.  Continue on to Asolo where we stay in the lovely Villa Cipriani.

Sunday, March 20:   Morning visit to two Palladian villas:  the Villa Barbaro with frescoes by Veronese and, perhaps my favorite of all, the Villa Emo.  After lunch we encounter the 20th c. bookend to Palladio:  Carlo Scarpa, another genius of design.  His Brion Tomb, a landmarks near Asolo, is perhaps his most important work.  Group lunch.

Monday, March 21:  Arrive in Venice!  Lunch at a favorite restaurant followed by a tour that takes us from the Rialto Bridge to Piazza San Marco.  Group lunch.  

Tuesday, March 22:  Morning tour of the Dorsoduro, on the other side of the Grand Canal:  the treasure trove church of the Frari, which in an of itself is a lesson in Venetian history, and the Scuola San Rocco with wall-to-wall painting by Tintoretto.  The Dorsoduro has for centuries been known for its artisan workshops.  In the afternoon we'll offer an optional tour of favorite studios and shops.  Group lunch.

Wednesday, March 23 Morning tour of two quintessentially Venetian sites:  first, a studio where historic Venetian costumes are made for operas and films.  This is a fascinating glimpse at what goes on beneath all the ruffles!  Then on to a factory where silk fabrics are hand-woven on centuries old wooden looms.  Lunch at a favorite restaurant.  Afternoon free to wander or for more touring.  

Thursday, March 24:  Excursion to Murano, the island of glassblowers.  We look forward to a private visit to the Venini, a glassworks that does not usually allow visitors.  In 2013/14, the Metropolitan Museum in NYC had an exhibition devoted entirely to Venini glass.  So needless to say it is always thrilling to see what they are fabricating.  Lunch in Murano.  Afternoon free for wandering or more touring.

Friday, March 25:  The tour ends with breakfast.  We will help people arrange airport transportation.

icily

October 29 to November 8, 2021

Oct 29:  Meet in Rome.  Afternoon tour of Rome's historic center, with several Caravaggio's along the way, since we will be seeing more of his work in Sicily. Dinner. Albergo Santa Chiara, Rome: one night.

Oct 30:  Mid-day flight to Reggio Calabria to see the Riace Bronzes, among the most important archeological finds of the past century.  Then cross to Sicily and, in the late afternoon, visit the newly renovated museum in Messina with two impressive works by Caravaggio. We arrive in Taormina in time for dinner.  Dinner. Grand Hotel Timeo: 2 nights.

Oct 31:  Explore Taormina, perhaps the prettiest spot in Sicily, with views of Etna, best seen from the ruins of the Greek/Roman theater.  Hikes, strolls, lovely shops.  Dinner.

Nov 1: Drive to Siracusa, an appealing port city with a wealth of Greek ruins and a beautiful harbor.  Morning visit to the archeological park with its Greek theater, haunting stone quarry, and Roman amphitheater. Afternoon tour of Ortigia, the historic center of Siracusa.  Lunch. Grand Hotel Ortigia, Siracusa: 2 nights.

Nov 2: Morning visit to the Catacombs of San Giovanni, where St. Paul is thought to have preached. Then on to Noto for a stroll through this remarkable Baroque city, plus lunch. Then, back in Siracusa in time for an evening puppet show. Lunch.

Nov 3:  Drive inland to visit the stunning Villa Casale in Piazza Armerina.  Acres of late-Roman mosaic floors. There's nothing I know of that is quite like this.  We will also visit the local museum in Aidone where artworks smuggled from Sicily, acquired by US museums, and then, ultimately, repatriated, now reside.  A very interesting story.  Lunch and dinner. Villa Athena, Agrigento: 2 nights.

Nov 4:  Visit the temples and museum of Agrigento.  Lunch and dinner.

Nov 5:  Drive to Palermo and head directly to the Norman Palace to visit the Cappella Palatina, one of Europe’s greatest treasures .  Afternoon tour of the historic center:  Baroque stucco-works of Giacomo Serpotta, the Palazzo Abatellis with its collection of artworks, and more.  Lunch. Centrale Palace Hotel, Palermo: 3 nights

Nov 6:  More treasures of Palermo and environs:  La Zisa, a 12th c. Norman pleasure palace, the glittering cathedral of Monreale and its adjacent monastery.  Very Festive Dinner.

Nov 7:   Excursion to the Greek temple and theater of Segesta and the beguiling hill town of Erice, a site long associated with Aphrodite.  Lunch.

Nov 8:  The tour ends with breakfast. 

Regarding flights:  You should plan to arrive in Rome no later than the morning of October 29 and depart from Palermo the morning of November 8.  Recommended airlines are Alitalia and Delta, both of which have flights out of Palermo.  

Optional tour of the Galleria Borghese the afternoon of October 28, for people who arrive early.  

As art historians we appreciate the depth of knowledge, expertise, and enthusiasm displayed by Nancy and Libby. Plus they really know their restaurants–Sicily was 10 days of the best food we’ve ever eaten!

John Hand and Dare Hartwell; Washington, DC